Laura’s Luncheonette

When you pull up to Laura’s you might think you’re in the wrong spot. The old building doesn’t stand on ceremony, but there is a small sign above a decorative table for two at the entrance. You walk in to a warm welcome from Laura’s son, Jimmy, who’s manning the open diner-style kitchen. His sister, Barbara, will tell you to take a seat anywhere.

When we go around 10 AM, the crew has been up for hours, having already been through a children’s birthday party at 7 AM (!). And that seems about perfect, as this is clearly a local place. While we peruse the menu, we hear the latest town news, and Jimmy adds his two cents from behind the counter, expertly flipping eggs all the while.

The birthday party kept the staff so busy that they only had time to make a few pies and a chocolate cake with cream cheese frosting. Of course, we get a slice to go. (We eat it later and it’s deliciously moist, made with a cup of coffee and cocoa, buttermilk, and four [four!] eggs.)

We opt for a freshly baked blueberry muffin, and aren’t disappointed. It’s actually two pieces — almost like a short muffin cut in half — that are quickly griddled to get a crisp outer layer. It arrives warm and moist, ripe for a pad of sweet, salty butter.

The waffle is Belgian, and just a touch salty. It’s hearty and fluffy, a good complement to an over-easy egg and bacon. The bacon melts in your mouth and is so thin you almost don’t feel bad about eating four slices. Almost.

We also get the breakfast special with buttered rye toast, fluffy scrambled eggs, and some more bacon. Home fries are also part of the special, and taste just-cut and cooked. (Unlike some diners, where they reuse oil, these taste fresh).

The company makes you feel like you’re part of a local secret, and they’re quick to include you. When we said we were from California, they asked us to sign their guestbook, should we ever become famous. I’m not sure about that, but we’ll definitely be back for doughnuts.