Cantine Bernard

The guedille, a canteen staple throughout Quebec, is a grill-toasted hot dog bun, usually filled with chicken, eggs, or seafood, or made entirely without meat. It will almost surely contain mayo, mustard, and a heap of brilliant, tangy cole slaw, and some are garnished with a few French fries. The meatless version is a light alternative to the heavier fare more typical of the region’s snack bars, such as poutine, cheeseburgers, and “les hot dogs Michigan,” topped with bolognese sauce.

There is no geudille chou more beautiful (or more delicious) than that served at the humble shack called Cantine Bernard, on Highway 20 east of Montreal. The bun is lightly toasted – not the least bit oily; slaw and chopped onions are perfectly crisp; and the sandwich is crowned with a spill of flavorful tomato chunks that are salted and vigorously peppered.

On the other hand, Cantine Bernard’s poutine is heavy-duty fare, dense and rich, made with fresh, big-flavored hunks of cheese, first-rate French fries, and formidable gravy laced with thyme.

When I visited, the staff at Cantine Bernard was particularly hospitable. I happened to show up on an overcast day and while I was enjoying lunch, a drenching rainstorm ensued. The picnic tables, located under an all-weather enclosure adjacent to the kitchen and order window, were well-protected. But when it came time to head back into the parking area, a member of the staff kindly brought me a morning newspaper, which she suggested I use as head cover when I dashed back to the car.