Even though Hildebrandt’s time-honored soda fountain has closed, Williston Park has a couple of alluring Roadfood destinations, both with an Italian accent. La Parma, with branches in Huntington and Oceanside, is known for family-size portions of beautifully-prepared standards such as bruschetta, stuffed artichoke, spaghetti with white clam or red clam sauce, and just about every other shape of pasta one encounters in Italian-American restaurants. Especially notable is Shrimp La Parma, which come swimming in a sauce of butter, white wine, lemon juice, and plenty of garlic. Gino’s offers pizza with either thin or thick crust, as well as the unique Long Island style known as a Grandma Pie. It’s square with a medium-thick crust that gets a crisp veneer thanks to being cooked in an olive-oil-coated pan. Its distinctive characteristic is that the cheese goes on first, then the red sauce.
Is there another dish as diverse as pizza? It can be an utterly simple tomato pie – nothing but sauce on crust – or it can be a multi-meat...
