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Tofu, which is bean curd made of coagulated soy milk, has no personality of its own. That’s its worth. It can be fried, baked, scrambled with eggs, marinated and barbecued, or it can be the meat-free protein in almost any helter-skelter dish, absorbing and reflecting the spices and other ingredients around it. Tofu’s versatility is demonstrated at Thai Son Tofu of Seattle, which has a tofu bar that offers it in such flavors as lemongrass-chili, onion-mushroom, and shrimp paste.