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The first thing you notice about a good sourdough pancake is the sound it makes when you press the edge of a fork to it. You hear a faint crunch as the tine breaks through a lacy crust. Inside the chewy web that encloses them, the pancakes are thin but substantial, with the vigorous, tangy disposition of an old sourdough starter that has had years to develop its character. Add fruit or syrup, and the flavor balance is memorable.