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The creation of a great banana split is ice-cream parlor art. Assembled in a boat-shaped dish, preferably made of glass for a good view, the classic version is three scoops of ice cream – chocolate, vanilla, strawberry – each crowned with a complementary topping: marshmallow on chocolate, chocolate (or hot fudge) on vanilla, and pineapple on strawberry. On top of that go chopped nuts, whipped cream, and a maraschino cherry (or three cherries). The whole affair is hugged by a single banana, cut in half lengthwise so that each half shores in the split’s sides. Bi-Rite creameries of California offer what might be the ultimate rendition. It includes vanilla ice cream suffused with liquor of vanilla beans, chocolate sauce that is cocoa turned to liquid velvet; bananas caramelized in amber syrup, toasted-crisp walnuts, and whipped cream that is as dense as crème fraiche.