Bhinda’s Curry Pizza Palace

Curry pizza would be an unusual find in New York or New Delhi, but in a tiny town in Central Utah, it’s downright bizarre. It is the creation of Bhinda Singh, who started his career with classic Indian restaurants in the Salt Lake City area. Knowing he needed to try something new in an isolated town of 321 citizens, he conceived a place that would satisfy the all-American need for pizza but also reflect his Punjabi heritage.

Behind the register, a gentleman dressed in business attire refers to the cook as “The Doctor.”  We assume this mysterious doctor is part of the family that owns the two-franchise Curry Pizza empire. The other Curry Pizza is in the Salt Lake City area, but it is here in Bicknell that the Punjabi-pizza fusion was developed.

The Doctor does a fine job in the kitchen, especially with the aromatic fenugreek seed-laced rice that comes with his curries. These curries are very good for a small town in Utah, but won’t impress those who seek the bold spices of uncompromised Indian food.

But pizza is impressive, made with dough that hits a middle ground between thin-crust Italian and pillowy naan bread. The bubbly crust is delectable, and would be good with just about any topping. It is especially well-suited as a foundation for chicken tikka and gooey cheese. The moist cubes of chicken, cilantro onions and stretchy mozzarella meld into the curry sauce and fluffy crust for a complete bite of food.

The Pizza Palace serves as a local grange for the surrounding village, especially Wayne High School across the street. Its small dining room is decorated to celebrate the athletic and scholastic achievements of neighboring students. This is where they get lunch, the more precocious among them having lamb vindaloo to celebrate special occasions.