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A love-it-or-hate-it dish, liver happens to be one of the most popular items when it is listed on a restaurant menu. The reason is that there likely is someone at home who loathes it, even loathes the smell of it cooking, meaning that the liver-lover has to go out to eat it. We’re talking here about beef liver or calf liver, which gets pan-fried along with onions and garnished with bacon. Chicken liver, which either is deep fried or chopped into a paste, is every bit as visceral but somehow doesn’t evoke the emotional extremes of livers of cows.