Roadfood Gourmet

From 1997 to 2009, when Gourmet Magazine ceased publication, Jane and Michael Stern traveled America writing a monthly column for the esteemed culinary journal that introduced readers to unique regional specialties, little-known (and occasionally legendary) eateries, and the crazy-quilt of characters who populate the food world. Their reports earned them three James Beard Journalism Awards. Here is a complete collection of those columns.

 

Datil Be Fine

Minorcan clam chowder looks like Manhattan clam chowder, and a first taste reinforces the resemblance. But soon a glow starts at the back of the throat, and after a...

Big Bird in a Little State

Roast chicken is usually demure, but in Rhode Island it’s outlandish. All around Woonsocket, in the Blackstone Valley north of Providence, the extremely tiny state sports extremely gigantic restaurants...

The Best Roast Beef Sandwich on Earth

Lovers of roast-beef sandwiches seek out Chicago’s Italian beef, Philadelphia’s cheesesteak, Southern California’s French dip, hot beef in the Upper Midwest, brisket in Jewish delis, wecks in Buffalo, and meat-stuffed onion rolls...

Claw and Order

Faidley’s is the big fish in a big pond. It’s the anchor store of the Lexington Market, Baltimore’s grazing paradise, where you can indulge in the likes of Angie’s...

A Really Big Shoe

Horseshoe sandwiches are ubiquitous in Springfield, Illinois, but no one eats them anywhere else. Like many folk foods, they’re hard to define, but all share a toasted bread base,...

Pie Shakes and Whitefish Fillets

On the western edge of Lake Superior, superlative natural ingredients reign supreme. Prolific orchards contribute ripe fruit for mouthwatering pies, and the pristine waters of the lake yield firm-fleshed...

20 Burgers to Eat Before it’s Too Late

One essential characteristic of any worthy hamburger is democracy of spirit—it should be accessible to all and not cost an arm and a leg. That’s why our list of...

Czech Please

In central Texas, kolaches outshine doughnuts. Just north of Waco, the small town of West (known for clarity’s sake as “West Comma Texas”) is the state’s kolache capital, where...

Say Cheesesteak

You can pay a hundred bucks for a Philly cheesesteak at Barclay Prime, on Rittenhouse Square, sit in a plush leather armchair, and nibble Kobe beef, lobster, and shaved...

Circles of Heaven

If you have time for only one meal in Minneapolis or Duluth, we strongly urge you not to go to Hell’s Kitchen, which has a location in each city. It is...

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