I couldn’t find that requirment anywhere and the dept of Ag didn’t make me when I put sinks in my ice cream truck. I actually bought a slip on check valve but didn’t install it. I could though if needed. I emailed my inspector last week with that question but haven’t heard back yet.
I got the drop in sink from Prima Supply. Its a BK resouces. I like it too
Can you help with what you used for your exaust far and how it's working
Nice build, impressive craftsmanship…
Thanks! We like it alot. I’m gonna post pics of the ice cream truck as well. Came out awesome. 3 days out selling ice cream so far this year in the ice cream truck and business has increased about 700% so far. (partly because of the louder speaker I got for the music box) Hopefully it stays that way all season long! Do not under estimate the appearance of your rig!
King do you not have to have a check valve or other form of back flow prevention on your 3 comp sink? the 3 comp drop in sink is very attractive I like it a lot.
Dr of BBQ
J. Freeman, Inc. is an industrial distributor catering to commercial businesses since 1927. We are a distributor carrying http://www.jfreeman.com/velcro.html VELCRO� brand fasteners exclusively, as well as http://www.jfreeman.com/plastics.html Plexiglas�, http://www.jfreeman.com/silicone.html Silicone, http://www.jfreeman.com/sign_materials.html#gold gold leaf, http://www.jfreeman.com/cutting_boards.html cutting boards, http://www.jfreeman.com/skylights.html#skylights sky lights, and more. We also http://www.jfreeman.com/lease.html lease sign, graphics, printing, and contractor equipment. http://www.jfreeman.com/acrylic_polycarbonate.html NEW ITEM acrylic sheets in white, black, bronze, grey are now available. For a complete list of what we carry, please see our http://www.jfreeman.com/products.html product list.
We accept Visa, MasterCard, and American Express.
We sell wholesale and retail to sign companies, glass companies, construction companies, architects, and home owners. We carry a large stock and ship same day in almost all cases. We can provide quotes and technical information immediately on your call. You don’t have to punch in numbers. Our sales staff is accessible and knowledgeable.
We sell Roper Whitney tools and equipment. http://www.jfreeman.com/lease.html Ask about our easy lease terms!
If you have any questions or would like to place an order please call us at:
(617) 282-1150 or (800) 841-9442
or fax us at:
J. Freeman, Inc.
65 Tenean Street Dorchester, MA 02122
http://www.jfreeman.com/contact.html Contact Us
I have plenty more pics and will post later on this evening.
Thanks for looking
Here is where I want to share a lesson learned the hard way so noone else make the same mistake I did. The white paneling I installed here was NRP (non fiber reinforced plastic panel) made by Parkland Plastics. Granted it said right on the label not to use in trailers but so did the FRP (fiber reinforced panel) that Menards sells so since the FRP was $25 a sheet where the NRP was only $15 I stupidly went with the cheaper product. I installed it with trowel on adhesive as well is plastic pin rivets. Everything was good for a while but the temperature changes from heating the inside to not heating the heating so on so on caused the paneling to eventually bubble out everywhere. Needless to say I had to rip it all out, wall and ceiling and it wasn’t easy as alot of the panels were bonded to the wall. The proper paneling to use is the brand that Home Depot sells. It is a very rigid panel and has a very nice glossy cracked ice finish.
I installed the floor before I realized I had no choice but to rip out the NRP paneling
After installing the proper panel from Home Depot on the walls (Glasteel, Glasliner FRP Panel) and white melamine board on the ceiling. I cut the whole for my window and framed the opening
I primed the wood frame and painted it a while gloss paint before the window went in
Next came my service panel and GFI outlets. Didn’t take pics of them but I have 5 sperate outlets inside and 1 outside.
After the outlet install(one shown above) I installed 1/16″ aluminum angle for my wall / ceiling trim. Then came the hood. The hood is a Captive Aire BLL 2812 48″.
After I got this far I realized(should have realized alot sooner I know) that I wouldn’t have enough space with my ice cream freezer on the left side and a sandwich prep table on the opposite side so I ending up having to tear apart the left side of the cabinet and counter. I wanted it this big so I could stash my fresh water tank on the left side and still have room for storage.
After I took the cabinet apart and rebuilt I installed the water heater and made a bracket for my,26,690366.001001004001001001001001,8,134523,22.214.171.124
691227,690858,691052,2012-03-17 23:55:17.437000000,Re:First catering opportunity…”
the first thing I did was ripped out the luan board from the middle part of the ceiling and got some 7/16″ ply wood was able to fish it up in between the roof material and the metal beams. I want to be able to walk on the roof, add a/c or whatever. I don’t have pics of that.
After I reinforced the roof I glued insulation to the plywood inbetween the beams and then started tearing off the luan trim pieces they used on the walls.
After I got all the ply off the walls I figured where I wanted my outlets and where my serval panel would be and then drilled holes wall studs and started running my wire. I used 12 gage romex and electrical taped the areas of wire that were in the stud. Although I did file the edges of the holes in the metal studs I wanted to be sure to go the extra step and protect the wires from being exposed.
Then I insulated the walls. In the pic directly above, the uninsulated square is where my Suburban LP water heater is.
As I started putting ply back on the walls I reinforced a section of the wall with 3/4″ thickness ply wood as this is where my flange mounted vent hood is. I will only be able to go through two of the studs so thats why I wanted to add more plywood
Pulled my wire through the ply for an outlet. Should have had more hanging out but I was trying to skimp on wire.
Cut the interior hole in the plywood for serving window
After I reinstalled the walls I put 1/4″ ply wood on the ceiling.
Very nice job on the trailer build
Thank you very much. I hope you gained something from the thread. I’m pretty well please with what I ended up with. I’m thinking about installing a 50amp 220volt service to the trailer but not sure yet. I’m having the trailer and ice cream truck wrapped next week so with that expense I’m sorta drained for cash a bit.
I’ll post pics of each after the wraps are installed.
Let us know how you end up fastening that griddle/table down.
DWags, the method I used was laid out in post 33 of page 2 of the thread. Take a look and if you have some specific questions ask and I’ll answer the best I can. This method has worked perfectly so far and I’ve take my trailer on many road trips now with no issues whatsoever.
trailers dollies are the nutz. I use mine all the time especially for backing the smoker in the garage.
Here is what it looked like when I purchased it. It was brand new.
I forgot…. I haven’t been here long enough to post links, [huh] but you can still search for them on the web.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.