Fran E. Morris Rosman
Here is the front of the trailer where my 3/4 inch black iron pipe starts. In this photo I installed a air fitting so I could charge the line with air to check for leaks. Everything checked out ok. I also installed shut off valves upstream (before) each piece of equipment being served by this line. The valves were all off while making this check as I did not want to damage the propane regulator I installed for the griddle and for the gas valve which has a built in regulator for the water heater.
here I reduced from 3/4 inch pipe to 1/2 up to my water heater. The water heater connection is 3/8 flare so I had to reduce and convert inside also.
Heres the 3/4 pipe making the 14 ft trip down towards the rear of the trailer to feed the griddle and deep fryer. I used plumbers tape to secure the piping to the underside of the trailer.
Heres the opposite end where it 90 deg’s over and then up into the trailer for the griddle / deep fryer
I installed a drip-T to catch any debris that make have gotten in the line as the result of my install. I probably should have installed it at the front of the trailer instead.
Making the flared tubing for the connection to the water heater.
Heres where some time was takin. Not in the actual install but in the method of attaching the equipment to the floors. First, pics are not shown but I removed the top of the griddle stand, removed the adjustable portion of the legs of the griddle and that exposed about 3/8 of an inch of threads on the legs of the griddle. The size of the griddle legs bolt is 5/8″ fine thread. So with the griddle stand top removed from it’s legs. I figured out where the griddle legs would match up and then I drilled 5/8 holes in the stand top. Then with griddle upside down I placed the stand top over the threads of the griddle legs and attached using 5/8 nuts. Tightened them down alot to get more threads to catch. I applied 100 silicone to the threads to act as a thread lock. After the griddle was attached firmly to the stand top I reinstalled the legs to the stand.
What you see in the pic above and below is 1″ galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighted to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges.
I crancked very tightly to the legs at the flange. To the point the leg was indented and provided a nice cove for the set screw to be to prevent any leg movement.
Same thing for the griddle but using 1 1/4 inch flanges
Well the window itself came from Menards. It is just a residential sliding window. The size is 36″ x 48″. The metal studs in this trailer are 24″ on center so when I cut my opening I only needed to cut through one stud. I then made a 2×3 frame to reinforced the opening. I attached the 2×3’s to the studs on each side. On the top and bottom of the framing in between the vertical studs I attached 1×2’s to the upper and lower sides of the 2×3’s which I was able to screw the plywood wall to for stability. These 1×2’s are in the walls ( not visible) but are attached to the 2×3 framing on top and bottom. The 2×3 framing was installed flush with the exterior skin and actually sticks out inside the trailer by about 1 1/2 inches or so. It’s been a while so I might not be exact. I then priming and painted the framing. The window has a installation flange with mounting holes all around so I attached the window from the inside of the trailer onto the inside edges of the 2 x 3 frame. I then trimmed the outside with aluminum angle
Installing from the inside like this indented the window from the outside which gave me a 1 1/2″ ledge where I was able to mount the shocks and hinge for the windown awning that I made.
For the awning itself I used 1/2″ inside measurement aluminum channel for the framing. All the ends were miter cut at 45 deg angle. I sandwiched a piece of either 1/4″ or 3/8″ plywood ( cant remember now ) inbetween .040 aluminum sheet for the exterior side and a piece of FRP for the interior side. Each corner of the plywood, aluminum and FRP were cut so that I could fit a smaller piece of channel ( which were cut at 45 deg angles ) inside the corners of the 1/2″ channel. After those sheets were sandwiched, I slipped the 1/2 channel over the sheets one side at a time. After one side was on I placed the smaller cut channel pieces in the corners of the 1/2 channel untill all were installed. Once all sides were over the sheets and in place I drilled holes through the channel where the 45 deg angle met all the way through the smaller pieces that were placed inside the corners. I then pop riveted those pieces together. I did this on all corners and on both sides. I should mention, that the 1/2 channel was hard to slip over the sheets but it straightend out the bend ply wood. Also, I used silicone in the channel before I slipped over the sheets and after very neatly around all edges. Once complete, I used a stainless piano hinge to install to the trailer window opening. I then installed gas struts / shocks to lift and hold the awning open. I also installed cam locks and a handle.
I hope this helps a little. I am rushing to write this before I leave for work so just ask if you need clarification on something else.
Good luck and thanks for checking out my thread.
I learned so much from your thread .. thanks for all the time you took to post pics and info details like the caulk used , prima supply..( that is the exact sink I was looking at t btw) southco latch…
I have a couple questions, If I were to build a cage like this type to hold my 2-100lb tanks:
1. would it be ok to use aluminum angle and tube? ( it is easier to drill and cut than roll steel for me )
2. How did you shape the flat bar to the tank? ( good old fashion hold against and bend with all your might?)
3. What type of pad could I place under the tank to give it a little cushion? ( would weather stripping work around the bottom rim of tank and between the flat bar and tank body?)
I plan to mount them on my existing bumper, not directly on but just a hair above and bracketed to my outer back doors that and now permanently closed.
any advise or comments is greatly appreciated.
More good info on this thread! I saw that waste tank at the damaged freight place I frequent. I b interested to know if was shipped from Utah. I wanted to use it, just coudnt make it work.
I love uninstrut too. Didn’t use it, but I will on another build.
Backshelf hoods are the $&[email protected] for mobile applications king. I’m on board.
Still liking the build, nice job. And good suggestions and knowledge from this thead.
how did you get the FRP to stay up on ceiling? I started to do my FRP install yesterday and it started to come off after a few hours!!! The walls hold up but the ceiling is a pain!!! [woot]
what are the white things holding on frp? also where did you get the corner sheet metal?
What you are asking about are 1/4″ plastic pin rivets. I got them at Menards cause at the time Home Depot didn’t have them available when I got the frp from them. I complained to them and told them that the manufacturer of the FRP they are selling recommends installing with both FRP adhesive and the plastic pin rivets. He told me he never saw it installed that way and referred me to Fastenal. Well I already knew Menards had them but wanted this to be a one stop shop. I gotta tell ya, my complaint worked cause I was just in Home Depot like 2 weeks ago and BAM they now stock and sell them. 🙂
If you have followed my thread you know that I installed adhesive the first time with a crappy wall covering product then ripped it all out then re did it with good FRP. Well when I put the good stuff up I only used plastic pin riveys and no adhesive and it looks and works great. No sagging or bubbling of any kind and much easier than applying adhesive.
The corner metal you see on the interior walls is like .050 aluminium that was installed as a finished product when I bought the trailer new. I saved it for reinstall and reused. The reason they used it is cause in the front of the trailer the corners are rounded so this was easier than rounding out some sheet metal and in the rear there is trailer wiring running behind it. A sheet metal shop could easily bend some of the stuff for you if you wanted it. My local sheet metal shop stocks all gauges of aluminum and stainless.
Just an update to my post:
I had my state of MN electrical inspection done last week and past with flying colors. He said we was impressed!! 🙂 🙂 🙂
I also had my state of MN Health Inspection done and also past with flying colors. 🙂 Felt soooooooooo good getting that out of the way let me tell you guys!!!
I had a practice run on some food over the weekend for my sons birthday party and it was hectic and I learned alot as to where I need to improve in terms of quality first and speed second. My first event of the season is in less than 2 weeks.
Couldn’t you get that tank between the beams??….That looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I also would have plumbed the waste directly into the tank, if your just a bit out of level on the one side, your going to have problems draining……..
Sounds like a your well on your way. Get that post count up so we can check it out 🙂
Thanks for the nice details. I was wondering how you install the window and the door to cover it. How do you trim it to prevent leaking. I have been looking for alumimun extrusions to use but I have not found any.
Yeah, that’s how big my bowls are too. I either had to have a free standing with drainboards or a drop in sink which has to be dropped in stainless. I also have to install NSF shelving above the sinks for air drying dishes.
I am very impressed not only with the build, but the gracious time you spent documenting it. I am very interested in installing something similar to your window / awning (I just don’t have 1300 bucks laying around for a window), and I was wondering if you had more info on the window itself, prep for the wall (other than just wood framing?), etc.
It appeared that the window framing was flush with the exterior, with the window inset a bit, but now with the awning it appears that the window frame has been trimmed in aluminum.
I understand that you can’t spell out every nut and bolt you put in, but either I missed a few steps, or am too old and dumb to follow 🙂
Thanks DoB I will look at ratchet straps tomorrow when I go out. I know walmart has them to I got a few from there already, I plan to used the ratchet straps to strap my equipment to the stands while the truck is in transit. Since the stands will be bolted to the floor, they won’t move but the equipment might especially with my driving.
I am building the frames for the tank tomorrow, wish me luck !!!
Bistro a go-go
id sure like to see pics of the hood and fans. where did you get them? cost and size? you can email pics to scwhite59(@)yahoo(dot)com pls? good luck on the project and im in the same boat so Im a sponge right now
Dr of BBQ
JBJR fast is not always good, in fact it’s almost never good in a build. The longer you take thinking, planing, and researching, the better your build/outcome will be. Heck with a full time job you have lots of winter nights to search RF and the internet for information that will make your trailer an easy to operate food service success.
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