All the events I have (15) currently with my ice cream truck I will be using this trailer in it’s place with a total frontage of 19 feet for both so my fees won’t increase. Some events do charge per foot but the ones that do do it in increments($300 per 10 x 10 space etc. just an example) and they make it so you have to park the long way.  Pretty slick eh! Not all do though and I even have a couple where I can set up a canopy in addition to my rig for no extra charge but they get a commision on my sales so it benefits them to allow me to add on to sell faster thus bringing in more money. I also do plan on putting a serving / pickup window in the rear door so that I have the option to seel out if it and use the main one as a pickup if needed. I do have some events where a pay and pickup window is a must. 

Don’t plan on serving curbside?

If you do any fairs or festivals most charge by the linear foot of frontage – it would be best with that respect to have your serving window at the narrowest back of the trailer.

So I built the awning door for my serving window but did not document the steps in building it sorry.
 
 
 

 


 
My question is to those who have awnings like this. How much clearance do you have between the door and the window when the door is closed like in the pic above? I have like 1/2″ and am unsure if a gas support lift will fit.
 
Thanks
 

Just wanted to update my post. I got sick so that took alot of the wind out of my sails so to speak. Anyway, since my last post I installed the cove base and the switch for the exhaust fan. Placed the freezer inside and secured it to the floor, placed the prep table inside and anchored it to the wall. The prep table I am using was used so I took some time cleaning that up. I placed the griddle stand and the bottom half of the griddle inside also.( had to take the plate off to change the Natural gas orifices to the supplied LP orifices) I suppose my next is to figure out the best way to anchor the griddle stand to the floor then the griddle to the stand then route and run my gas line underneath the trailer.
 


 
 

Incase anyone is wondering why in the heck I have masking tape on the walls everywhere it’s because the tape represents where my wall studs are.
 
  

how did you get the FRP to stay up on ceiling? I started to do my FRP install yesterday and it started to come off after a few hours!!! The walls hold up but the ceiling is a pain!!! [woot]

Did you use FRP adhesive plus the plastic pin rivets? I actually used a white melamine panel board for my ceiling and used zinc coated screws to secure it to my 1/4″ plywood backing. I then used 1 1/4″ (1/16″ thick) aluminum flat to cover the seams. The melamine is $10 per sheet cheaper and satisfies the health code for smooth durable easily cleanable surface.
If you didn’t use adhesive AND pin rivets then I’d say that’s why you are having issues. I would think the rivets would be fine alone if you used them in higher qty’s than the walls though but the glue alone probably wouldn’t hold up by itself. The recommended install procedures is glue plus rivets but I only used the rivets on my walls and they have held up now for 3 seasons with no issues whatsoever.