Alright. PM me if I can help. I have pictures of my construction process. Best of luck
Are you using E-Z cart video plans?
No, I am actually not using any plans. I’ve looked at a lot of cart manufacturers online and then also looked at one in person that was for sale to see how it was built. I also used info from this great site here and from all of this I came up with how to build one. No plans or video.
I have them…. I think they work as well as anything comparable…. but that being said I dont think there is a chance you are gonna cut 18 gauge stainless. A nibbler might be better, though they use a ton of air.
I agree it can be difficult working with stainless sheet, also hazardous if a saw or grinder kicks back. You are right to urge caution if someone is not very experienced in handling and working with it. I would also urge anyone to use gloves and safety glasses when handling and cutting or grinding any material.
Wasn’t disagreeing with you. Just cautioning newbies on the difficulty working with 18-20 gauge without proper equipment. Even with 18 gauge, wouldn’t want to construct any horizontal surface top without substructure every 16 to 20 inches.
Are you using E-Z cart video plans?
I am a Union Sheet Metal Worker. Find a local sheet metal shop and talk to the shop foreman and ask if anybody is interested in govt work. You would be surprised what you can get for 20 bucks or a couple pizzas. I rarely pay for my lunch when I eat out.[:o)][8D]
I got a price for my cart top, $290. I little more than I wanted to spend. So next thought is to create a aluminum frame for the top and then use 20-22 gauge 304 stainless on top. Cutting the opening for the burner box comes into question. Looking for a nice neat clean edge. Looking at a pair of air shears like Harbor Freight has. Their site says they cut up to 18 gauge. Has anyone used these to do any cutting?
I did not recommend 27 gauge just referenced it as I was working with it, ps303 said he was thinking of going with 20 or 22 gauge, it can be sawed and drilled but it wares out bits and blades much faster and indeed is costly when you make mistakes. The difference in 18 and 22 gauge is not a lot, 18 gauge is less than 1/16 of an inch. I do not know the span you are working with but you will need support on 18 gauge also if it is to bear any weight. Any way merely trying to offer options.
I think I will opt for the 18 gauge top. I looked at some 20 gauge SS this morning and unless I reinforce it underneath somehow, it’s to flexible for me. The guy I spoke with said I could cut the 18 with pneumatic shears but I am now concerned with rough edges and also messing it up and the bends not being right. If I messed it up I could spend just as much as if I just went ahead and had someone make it for me.
27 guage is pretty thin. Will not carry any weight to speak of. Got my 4′ x 10′ 20 guage for $150 per sheet and that was a good price. Hard to keep safe edges without folding over.
Oh I know cost vary across the country but I bought 4’x10′ sheets 27 gauge stainless for $68.00 plus tax so I maybe wrong but $290 a sheet sounds high.
One other thing if you do go this route drill bits should be have about 135 degree tips and masonary bits will also work in a pinch, you can pick these up at a Ace hardware or what have you they will be marked for hardened steel or stainless. Hope this helps.
Hi, I can recommend a couple of options. I have been in welding and fabrication for years and owned my on business the last 10 or so and i have a plasma cutter as well as a lot of fab equipment although no shear or breaks. You can cut stainless with a hand grinder and cut off wheel as Rubok says but I use a 5″ grinder and a 6″cut off wheel, cut off wheels are thinner than a grinding wheel but the 4″ grinder and cut off wheel works just as well. It dose take some practice to hold it straight and follow a line. You can also cut with a saws-all or jig saw. I would go with the jig saw. I just installed 27 gauge stainless walls in the cooking area of my trailer build and cut it with a jig saw. The key is clamp the sheet down to a stable work surface and use the best blades you can get about 18 teeth per inch. According to how much you cut you will go through a few blades as they dull much faster in stainless than mild steel. When you are ready to do your cut out drill holes at all four corners of the cut outs again the better bit the more holes you can drill I use a titanium bit, cobalt will also work but a regular bit will dull after a couple of holes, the titanium bits are only a couple bucks more. By drilling the holes you have a starting point for the jig saw blade and you do not have to scroll or navigate the corners which is difficult in stainless sheeting you can scroll but 90 degrees is easier with pre drilled than making a 90 degree turn. It is not very hard special attention to steady and following your line for e straight cut, you can also clamp a straight edge down for a guide for the saw to run along and assure a straight cut. There are several more options I can give you but this I feel would be the best method to save a few bucks and have a nice outcome on your project, oh and lay the cuts out and cut from the back or a place something like masking tape as a scratch protector from the jig saw base, stainless can be polished or brushed back to a nice finish but takes a lot of extra work, there are also grinding disk for stainless and aluminium called blending disk and are best for smoothing edges obtained at a local welding supply. Do not brush or grind stainless with a wheel or brush that has contacted other alloys such as mild steel, it will contaminate the stainless with mild steel or high carbon particles and you will eventually see rust from the contamination the stainless doesn’t rust but appears to it is actually the particles embedded in the stainless.
If it was me, I’d go to the scrap yard and get a small piece of simaler material, and then stop by hobo frieghts and pick up a 4″ hand gringer, along with a 4″ cutting wheel for the grinder.
Take it all home and practice cutting straight lines with it.
Tools = $25.00 Scrap of SS sheet, = $5.00.
I spoke to a guy that sells SS and other metal but he doesn’t have the equipment to do the cuts. So I am going to see him tomorrow and see if this is doable. I don’t think it is but I have to try anyway.
TD you’re pretty lucky to have a son-in-law that has that equipment. I’m sure it saved you some cash. If I could get away with having it done for around $200 I’d be happy. If I could do it all myself for $120, I’d be as happy as a pig in mud.
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