** THIS RESTAURANT IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED **
“U Need No Teeth to Eat Our Beef” is one of Wilson’s several mottos (another being “U Need A Bib to Eat Our Ribs”), and sure enough, that hacked up BBQ beef is impressively tender. Moist, velvet-soft shreds are interspersed with crusty strips from the outside of the brisket; the flavor is quintessentially beefy, well-salted and fatty. Magnificent!
I did not get a chance to try the ribs, nor barbecued bologna; but I did mix the beef with hot links, which have a great spicy zest and a muscular quality that does require dentition. Another house specialty is Wilson’s smoked potato: a huge spud that is presented splayed open and lightly seasoned, available “plain” with just butter and sour cream, or stuffed with your choice of brisket, cut-up hot links, or bologna.
J.B. Wilson, who opened the place in 1961, passed away in 2004; but it is now run by Amos Adetula, whom the menu describes as “a good friend to J.B. [carrying on] the same values and traditions.” It is now a modern two-room BBQ parlor with wood paneled walls, table service and a counter where people come for take-out orders. Décor includes signs that read, “Our cow is dead. We don’t need no bull” and “The bank and I have an agreement. They will not sell bar b que and I will not lend money or cash checks.”