Memorable | One of the Best
Wave Hill Breads
Review by: Michael Stern
I became an acolyte of Mitchell Rapoport and Margaret Sapir when they started baking their three-grain pain de campagne at a little shop off Route 7 in Wilton. What a magnificent loaf it is: muscular crust, dense crumb, and flavor that is fine with nothing added and even finer dipped in olive oil or spread with good butter.
According to the bag in which it’s packed, the loaf is made from flour, water, spelt and rye berries, sea salt, and yeast. The spelt and rye berries are organic, of course; and loaves are baked each morning (except Tuesday). They are available at the bakery as well as several local grocery stores and the every-Thursday Farmer’s Market in Westport.
Since debuting with that one great loaf, the Wave Hill repertoire has expanded to croutons — huge, gnarled, crusty things that make any soup or salad deluxe, available plain, hot-peppered, garlicky, or lemon and thyme — and an item called “just crust,” which is a buff chip for crust lovers. The bread selection now includes a deliriously chewy olive and roasted red pepper ciabatta and a multi-grain loaf. A panoply of pastries also is on the menu: croissants, muffins, macaroons, gibassiers, and sticky buns.
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