Uncle Chicken’s

Uncle Chicken’s is a place you drive by and wonder about. Once a truck, it’s gradually morphing into a full-size brick and mortar restaurant. The menu is an eclectic collection of comfort food, from smoked lamb gyros to Cuban quesadillas to nachos, even salads. Seeing that we’re first-timers and a bit overwhelmed, Craig asks if we’d like a sample platter. Yes, please.

Next thing we know we’re tasting little portions of five different Uncle Chicken specialties. The first is coleslaw. It is crisp and refreshing, finely chopped with light dressing. Craig tells us that he hated coleslaw growing up and that this is his way of making up for it. Italian soup is basic tomato basil. It’s good, but overshadowed by cream of chicken made with mushrooms and a pinot gris. The wine is apparent, and makes a clean cut through the cream. Next, pulled pork with Carolina barbecue sauce. Then, spicy, thick red chili that would be wonderful for any game day.

After placing our order we sit down at the picnic tables outside, lined up one after the other under bistro lights that Craig politely turns on for us while we wait. Another associate from behind the window makes the 30-second walk across the parking lot to the smoker, which sits about 10 feet from the road and is home to many of the things we just ordered.

When our buzzer goes off, we head to the counter to collect our items. First, a huge pile of smoked chicken wings, freshly pulled from the aforementioned smoker. Spicy garlic teriyaki sauce engenders a lingering tang that stays with us long after the final morsel. Underneath the crisp skin, tender chicken has a hint of smoke.

French dip sandwich meat is tough but tasty, sandwiched between two buttery pieces of sweet bread. The jus is salty and rich, and when you put it all together it’s a serious juice-dripping-down-your-arm situation. An embarrassing amount of napkins is necessary.

Inside the box that holds a chicken and pork platter are two pieces of yellow bread with what looks like poppy seeds and sea salt along the edges. We slap some of the tender, almost wet, pulled pork on top of the buttery slices: a strange, delicious combo. The chicken is also good, a variation on the pork, but not as tender. On the side: a bag of fries, half hand-cut regular, half curly sweet, both well-seasoned.

Uncle Chicken’s can cater to practically any craving. Much business is take-out, but it is so welcoming and down-to-earth you’ll want to sit down and stay a while.