Above the riverfront in Savannah, Two Cracked Eggs serves breakfast all day (until 3pm closing). Portions are very large; quality is high; much of what’s served is lots of fun. And the restaurant is fairly small. Chances are good you will wait for a table, especially on a nice weekend morning.
The fun of dining here isn’t only in the food itself (which I’ll get to posthaste); service and decor have an upbeat rustic mien: meals are served on cast iron trays and in little skillets; bacon is available hanging from a clothesline (on which it has been cooked); tables are rough-hewn wood; waitresses are country girls who’ll chat you up, even when busy.
About that clothesline bacon: One order costs well over $10 and it is just three slices. But oh, what slices! Each is a virtual cured pork steak, plenty thick and streaked with equal measures of fat and lean. It is possible to pick it up and gnaw, but a knife and fork are well-suited to the task of getting this super-succulent, salty, smoke-infused meat to one’s mouth.
Most meals come with a biscuit. It is a monumental cat head, crisp-edged with a tender, somewhat bland crumb that comes alive when spread with house-made “Traffic Jam,” a mix of blackberries, red raspberries, and strawberries. (Waitress Samantha was quick to correct me when I referred to it as jelly, saying that she knows it’s jam because she watches it made from real fruit.)
The menu is broad and entertaining, with such items as white trash hash (spuds, onions, peppers, and sausage gravy), peach French toast dotted with sugared pecans, and shrimp Benedict, plus a full roster of eggs, crepes, waffles, and breakfast sandwiches. Most meals are accompanied by stone-ground grits served in a cute little iron skillet. They’re mild-tempered, just barely buttery — not a star, but a worthy side dish to meaty meals.
Note to coffee hounds: In addition to regular coffee, espresso, cappuccino, etc., Two Cracked Eggs offers nitrogen-infused Cuban coffee, which is a small cup of extremely potent stuff tempered with lots of sugar.