Twede’s Café, formerly Thompson’s Café, then the Mar-T Café, was a well-known location in the cult-fave 1990-1991 television series “Twin Peaks.” Its cherry pie and a “damn fine cup of coffee” were character Dale Cooper’s favorite snack. North Bend’s three-meal-a-day diner now makes the most of its moment of pop culture fame, billing itself as the “Home of Twin Peaks Cherry Pie.”
The pie is good, if not earth-shaking, its thick crust and tart filling brought to fruition by a large dollop of soft-serve vanilla ice cream on top. The better dessert here is a lemon bar… that is, if you really like lemon bars. This one is large and intensely lemony, too big-flavored for all but the most voracious sweet tooth. Brownies are equally immense, but lackluster chocolate is their undoing. In fact, the desserts we like best at Twede’s Café are Rice Krispie treats – a textbook balance of cereal’s crunch and melted marshmallow’s chew.
Dinners to precede the sweets are good versions of immemorial diner fare: gravy-smothered chicken-fried steak, flamboyantly dressed bacon cheeseburgers with high-quality French fries, a hot turkey sandwich made with roasted and carved in-house bird, stout beef-and-bean chili. Good breakfasts include smoky double-thick bacon slices, a spicy chile/pepperjack omelet, and a sweet slab of ham steak. Pancakes, however, are doughy beyond redemption. And the biscuit, heavy as hardening clay, could only be an acquired taste.
While we don’t love all the food, we do like Twede’s Café’s buoyant personality. Waitresses do their job with enthusiasm and it fun to sit at the counter or in a booth and watch star-struck “Twin Peaks” fans take selfies with their cherry pie and coffee.