Memorable | One of the Best
Review by: Michael Stern
Meatlessness never tasted so good.
Tumerico’s chef and owner Wendy Garcia, who cooks by eye and taste without written recipes, creates an ever-changing repertoire of memorable Mexican food that is strictly vegetarian and in most cases, vegan. She even makes gluten-free tortillas from rice and garbanzo bean flour.
Many dishes written on the day’s blackboard might be meatless in any restaurant: hearty potato tacos, calabacitas mole, sweet potato pancakes, butternut squash tamales, and huevos rancheros.
Chef also is a wizard at creating meals that seem to be composed of animal flesh but are not. Spicy tacos al pastor are made not with pork, but with chunks of jackfruit that do a brilliant impersonation of carnitas: succulent, slightly chewy, radiant with flavor. Carne asada, which includes eggplant chicharones and soy chorizo, is an amazing trompe la langue that doesn’t miss red meat at all.
Tumerico is a no-frills restaurant bursting with the energy of a mission-focused chef. Wendy is a hands-on proprietor who is ubiquitous: greeting customers, taking orders at the counter, and overseeing food prep for crowds of devotees.
Dinner is served Friday and Saturday from 5pm to 8pm. The rest of the week, Tumerico is open from 10am to 3pm.
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|