Tania’s 33

First, tortillas. No mere wrappers, they have full wheaty flavor unto themselves. Slightly salty, earthy, with just the right chew, they are a significant presence in whatever dish they’re used.

They’re especially right paired with succulent carne asada in a full-bore burrito with whatever complements you desire, from a squirt of lime to beans, roasted chiles, and tater tots. Cheese crisps, quesadillas, and enchiladas all are exemplary.

Open at 7am, Tania’s is a great place for breakfast. Burritos, available regular, large, and extra-large, can be constructed with anything from bacon and eggs to beef and beans. Mexican plates are fantastic, including huevos enchilados, machaca & eggs, and an absolutely stupendous chilaquiles that glows with the sunny vegetable flavor of chiles.

Vegetarians and vegans will find plenty of inviting options, including such pseudo-meats as soy chorizo and soy machaca, as well as a wide array of classic meatless fillings for burritos and tacos: roasted chiles, calabacitas (squash), prickly pear pads, beans, cauliflower. Plus all sorts of freshly made tamales.

There always are a dozen soups, sold in sizes from cup to gallon. Highlights include menudo, potato-tortilla, pozole, and arroz con pollo.

The one problem I have with Tania’s is that there are too many inviting dishes on the menu. A person could come for breakfast and lunch for a couple of weeks and never eat the same thing twice. That’s a challenge I’d happily accept.