Tipster Lincoln Barber recommended Sweet Georgia Brown in South Oak Cliff for the “best mac-and-cheese ever (seriously, ever!).” But in the scheme of things at Sweet Georgia Brown, marvelous mac ‘n’ cheese is only a supporting player. The place is a barbecue, and a good one, offering deliriously fatty chopped brisket, ribs with long strips of intensely flavorful lean meat sharing bone space with equally flavorful, melting-soft fat, hot links that are crisp-skinned, and Polish sausage that delivers pepper punch. Because service is cafeteria-style and each meal is painstakingly plated to your specifications, you will have a long time to survey the offerings and change your mind a dozen times as you choose from among collard greens, sauteed corn, fried okra, broccoli casserole, braised cabbage, beans and peas of various size and color.
For dessert, there are beautiful layer cakes as well as sweet potato pie, chess pie, and cobblers; but the size of my meal precluded them all. Portions at Sweet Georgia Brown are Brobdingnagian. A full meat and three meal, arrayed in a partitioned Styrofoam clamshell (the only dishware, whether you are dining in or taking out) weighs five pounds and will serve at least two large hungry people.
If my survey of the menu did not make it clear, Sweet Georgia Brown is a soul food restaurant serving the cuisine of southern African Americans. I was the only Caucasian in the restaurant the Friday I went for lunch. The staff and other clientele were nothing but welcoming.