Steller Kitchen

The proprietors are named Jen and Alex Steller, but that is not why I would describe Jen’s cheese crackers as celestial. It’s their flavor that’s heavenly. A simple item that’s available because much of the menu is aimed at those on a ketogenic (low carb) diet, these little orange crispies steal the show. (Yes, you can get potato chips, but why bother?) They eat like good Saratoga chips — mostly crunchy but with some pliable give in the center of thicker ones. Their flavor is a burst of cheddar concentrate, like the pools of cheese that ooze out of a grilling cheese sandwich and get all chewy/crisp and intense on the griddle.

Pimento cheese, which is especially popular in this part of the South (staple fare at the Masters Golf Tournament across the Savannah River), isn’t shockingly wonderful like the crackers. But it is wonderful in an opposite way: the way of a simple classic. Good sharp cheddar, mayo, and pimentos are its all. No folderol, no turbocharging. It is just fine ol’ Dixie comfort food.

There’s always a casserole on the menu — the main focus of the business is meals that are ready to take home, heat and heat. One of the favorites is shepherd’s pie. There is some trickery going on here. Instead of mashed potatoes on top (they’re verboten to ketogenicists), Jen Steller uses mashed cauliflower. Brilliant! And because it is designed to be especially low-carb and high-protein, it is packed with ground beef (technically, making it a cottage pie) and smothered in creamy melted cheese. Likewise, when Jen bakes meat loaf, it is her grandmother’s recipe, but made with almond flour instead of breadcrumbs.