Shade

Seafood
good
Worth a return
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In the Portland area to judge Down East magazine’s First Annual World’s Best Lobster Roll Competition, I spent a couple of nights at the Higgins Beach Inn. While the region has a surfeit of alluring Roadfood restaurants to explore, I did manage to fit in a couple of meals at Shade, the Inn’s restaurant. I am glad I did.

The best thing I ate was Shade’s lobster roll: a great pile of strapping pink meat just barely slick with mayonnaise heaped into a big, buttery (and butter-grilled) roll that is the same configuration as an ordinary Yankee split-top bun but is made of rich brioche dough. Deluxe … and delish! The roll is accompanied by crisp 3-bean salad and a pile of freshly-cut French fries that are flavorful, although lacking crisp edges. I followed the roll with a slice of blueberry cheesecake, which was quite alright.

For now, only guests of the Inn can have breakfast. House-made corned beef hash is unctuous shreds and chunks of briny meat with a few crisp edges, larded with soft potatoes: a satisfying plate of food, accompanied by hash browns, a pair of eggs, and toast. The breakfast menu also includes buttermilk pancakes, eggs Benedict, and cinnamon French toast.

Higgins Beach Inn is a charming old hostelry dating back to 1897, recently renovated and modernized but still featuring creaky wood floors that list with age. Dining facilities include an airy semi-al fresco porch. I look forward to returning for such dinner entrees as shellfish stew and haddock & chips with caper remoulade.

What to Eat
Shade, Lobster Roll
Lobster Roll
Must-Try
Impeccable lobster, sheathed in mayo, is piled into a crisp-edged buttery brioche roll.
Shade, French Fries
French Fries
Freshly-cut French fries are on the soft side, but pack mighty potato flavor.
Shade, 3-Bean Salad
3-Bean Salad
Crunchy, snappy, zesty 3-bean salad accompanies the lobster roll.
Shade, Smoked Local Seafood
Smoked Local Seafood
Smoked mussels, scallops, and shrimp pack big outdoorsy flavor. That's a ramekin of tarragon mustard sauce in back.
Shade, Blueberry Cheesecake
Blueberry Cheesecake
Red, white, and blue blueberry cheesecake
Shade, Corned Beef Hash
Corned Beef Hash
The guest breakfast menu includes succulent corned beef hash.
Directions and Hours
Information
Seasons
Summer
Meals Served
Dinner
Credit Cards Accepted
Yes
Alcohol Served
Yes
Outdoor Seating
Yes
Website

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