**** THIS RESTAURANT IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED ****
Upon entering this little diner you are faced with the steam table from which the server puts together your plate. While it is possible to order off a menu – and the fried chicken and shrimp therefrom are exemplary – we cannot resist the array of barbecue and side dishes in the trays. You get either pulled pork, which is a medley of velvet-soft shreds from inside and crunchy strips from the outside of the roast bathed in the Sergeant’s brilliant tangy-sweet sauce, or ribs, which are crusty and luscious, also caked with the good sauce. Each side dish is a soulful rendition of a southern classic: smothered cabbage richer than ham itself, broccoli gobbed with cheese, brilliantly seasoned red rice, a vivid mix of collard and turnip greens, REAL mashed potatoes, candied yams, etc., etc. A normal meal is one meat and two sides, served with a block of cornbread on top. Even that cornbread is extraordinary: rugged-textured and sweet as cake.
Sergeant White, by the way, is a U.S. Marine, a former D.I., who offers business-size cards at the counter to remind guests of the Marine code of Honor, Courage, and Commitment.