Serving Spoon | Hospitality and Good Vibes Soul Food in L.A.

A list of house rules posted at the Serving Spoon includes admonitions to relinquish a table when you’ve finished. That way, others have a chance to eat. Furthermore, “if you encounter a celebrity sighting, give them the respect of allowing them to complete their dining experience should you decide to approach them.” The rules make sense: the Serving Spoon’s popularity means that you should expect to wait for a table. It does attract a cadre of Los Angeles glitterati. For all that, friendly hospitality and good vibes reign. You know that for sure by the friendly greeting issued by a host at the door.

On a podium up front, a sign says if there will be a wait for a table and how long it might be. When the time comes, you are directed to a booth or table or armchair seat at a long diner-style counter. ESPN plays on a few overhead TVs. But unless an important event is on, ebullient conversation and music drown it out. Everyone who eats here seems very happy to be doing so. A staff who seem happy to be on the job amplify the good cheer. My waitress fretted terribly when I didn’t finish all my fried chicken She insisted I take it with me in a to-go box along with veggies and cornbread that I hadn’t polished off. Talk about hospitality and good vibes!

The menu features such homespun soul food items as chicken and waffles, pork chops, catfish, and vegetables galore. In fact, on a recent visit, I forewent an entrée altogether and enjoyed a four-vegetable plate. I forked into sweet potatoes spiced like Christmas and tender, clumpy collard greens that were as satisfying as meat. I also savored that beloved southern-style vegetable, mac ‘n’ cheese, which was spicy, soft, and satisfying. And I used a spoon to dip into a bowl of thick, brightly-spiced, beanless chili con carne. On the side came a slab of cornbread nearly as sweet as pound cake. The meal concluded with syrupy peach cobbler.

Notes: *As limited as seating may be, parking can be even scarcer. *Serving Spoon’s location makes it an ideal first or last stop on the way from or to LAX.