Sarabeth’s Kitchen

Review by: Michael Stern

When we came across Sarabeth’s Kitchen in the early 1980s, it was a small, charming cafe that seemed to exist more to sell house-made orange-apricot marmalade than to serve meals. The marmalade, which the restaurant serves with breadstuffs and is particularly yummy when decorating lengths of crisp-skinned pork sausage, still is a treasure. Sarabeth’s itself has become an empire with stores all over New York, one in Florida, and several in the Far East. (See Sarabeth’s website for addresses.)

We don’t begrudge conspicuous success, but we aren’t nearly as happy as we used to be with Sarabeth’s food. Yes, the marmalade is swell; a breakfast called Goldie Lox (eggs scrambled with smoked salmon and cream cheese) remains a luxurious indulgence; and lemon-ricotta hotcakes, which have been a signature dish for decades, are a breakfast benchmark.

However, the muffins, croissants, scones, and other breadbasket things that are there to showcase the jams and jellies are leaden, and on a recent early morning visit to the Sarabeth’s on Madison Avenue, were day-old desiccated. Anyone in the mood for great baked goods has countless better choices throughout Manhattan and the boroughs.

We’re not inscribing Sarabeth’s in the black book; we’ll likely return when in the market for a polite, unsurprising breakfast, such as one where the goal is to pay attention to tablemates rather than to the food. (Lunch and supper also are served.)

What To Eat

Lemon Ricotta Hotcakes

DISH
Goldie Lox

DISH
Coffee

DISH
Pork Sausage with Orange-Apricot Marmalade

DISH
Muffin Basket

DISH

Sarabeth’s Kitchen Recipes

Discuss

What do you think of Sarabeth’s Kitchen?

Nearby Restaurants

Island Restaurant

New York, NY

Yura

New York, NY

Papaya King

New York, NY

Barney Greengrass

New York, NY

Murray’s Sturgeon Shop

New York, NY

Patsy’s Pizzeria

New York, NY

Article’s & Guides Tagged Patsy’s Pizzeria

×

Connect with us #Roadfood