Review by: Michael Stern
Legendary | Worth driving from anywhere
“Sally” was Sal Consiglio, the nephew of Frank Pepe; and in 1938, about a dozen years after Frank Pepe’s opened New Haven’s first pizzeria, Sal broke away and started his own just down Wooster Street. Sal himself is gone, and his wife Flora has passed on, too. Sal’s descendants ran it for a while, but in 2017 it was sold to a group that has promised to take the brand nationwide.
For now, anyway, the original Sally’s remains the one and only. If and when it does go national, the new owners have said they intend to keep it as their flagship. Time will tell.
It is impossible to imagine New Haven without Sally’s. Even those who like Pepe’s, or maybe Modern, better, cannot deny that Sally’s has soul. It glows with old-neighborhood feel: wood-paneled walls, booths with well-worn Formica-topped tables, ubiquitous images of Frank Sinatra (a fan of Sal’s cooking) all over the walls. And the pizza packs a wallop. It is generously topped, well-oiled and comes on a thin crust that is smudged and gritty underneath. Atop that crust come fresh tomatoes, broccoli rabe, pepperoni and/or sausage, and our personal favorite, the works. That one is informally known as an Italian bomb, and it is a tribute to Sally’s crust that it survives and stays chewy even under the great load of ingredients atop it.
And by the way, the second word in the name of this restaurant, Apizza, is the old Connecticut way of giving the place a Southern-Italian flair. It is properly pronounced a-BEETS.
|Credit Cards Accepted||No|