“It blew us away,” Cliff Strutz wrote in his recommendation of the Saddle Creek Breakfast Club. I followed his tip and I too was gobsmacked by just how good it is.
I’ve categorized it as a New American restaurant, which in some ways it is; but many things on the menu are not new at all; they are traditional dishes — traditional dishes made with savoir faire. Biscuits and gravy is a good example. There is no more exemplary diner breakfast. However, I don’t know any other diner where the biscuits are creme fraiche biscuits, as creamy as cake, with fragile crisp skin. And the sausage gravy? Far from gluey, greasy-spoon fare, it is light and elegant with deep pork flavor and sharp pepper bite. This is biscuits and gravy born again!
Simple toast to accompany a meal is a cut above, too. It’s brioche toast, buttery to begin with, even more inviting when a schmear of butter is melting into its airy surface. Even coffee is top-notch. It’s made with a roast from Omaha’s Amateur Coffee: a dark, deep, earthy brew. Like bacon? Take your pick of regular, braised, or a shoulder cut. Sausage is available as house-ground patties or O’tillie links. (O’tillie is an Omaha butchery.)
Beyond reborn renditions of classic breakfast, SCBC does offer such flights-of-fancy dishes as a kimchee omelet drizzled with unagi sauce, eggs Benedict made with braised short rib and jalapeno jam, and a corned beef hash burrito flavored with sriracha aioli.
Of course, the menu changes with the seasons and virtually all the groceries in the kitchen are locally sourced. Several gluten-free and vegan options are available.
The stylish food is presented by a team of fashionable millennials in a fairly small, low-key dining room. Do note that word is out about about the goodness of this place. Expect to wait for a seat, especially on the weekend.