Restaurante Las Palmas

Restaurante Las Palmas serves food that is much prettier than the building in which the restaurant is located — a ramshackle former convenience store / gas station by the side of a country road. Some dishes, like fajitas and nachos supreme, are downright beautiful. And many of them are very, very delicious.

The kitchen’s simple nachos are quiet alright, if not memorable; but the supreme ones are a symphonic chord of harmonizing elements: dark and succulent beef, melty rich cheese, crisp lettuce, ripe tomatoes, and luxurious cream, with enough savory oil dripping onto the tortilla chips below to make every bite unconscionably indulgent. Fajitas are similarly complex — loaded with grilled fresh vegetables that are themselves a joy to eat, not even counting the good beef, chicken, and/or shrimp available as featured attraction.

Burritos are large and masterfully crafted, available with chicken, steak, ground beef, carnitas, or al pastor along with rice, beans, onions, cilantro, cream, tomato, and cheese. The choice of tacos is even broader, including all the usual Mexican-American fillings as well as more south-of-the-border choices such as tripe and tongue. Quesadillas are terrific, especially the one packed with the most succulent carnitas imaginable.

Restaurante Las Palmas is not Taco Bell (praise be!) and is not the place to come if you want to eat fast and beat it. Meals are made to order in the small kitchen, so it can take a while. Good, peppery salsa and warm chips are set on the table for munching while you wait, and entertainment is provided by a television on the wall that is tuned to Video Rola, a Mexican station that features passionate caballeros and sultry maidens singing their hearts out.