I often order sweet potato fries or chips, loving sweet potatoes and hoping that a spell in the fry kettle will make them even better. Most of the time, their sweet-earth flavor has been vanquished by the oil, leaving only drab and ghostly spuds. Poppy’s sweet potato chips are an exception: radiant with spicy flavor, crunchy-crisp, and salted just enough to balance their inherent sweetness.