Pioneer Coffee Company

Eye-opening espresso, all by itself, is a drink to remember at Pioneer Coffee Company. Inky, thick, and fairly throbbing with flavor, it also is a wonderful basis for latte, its sonorous personality strong enough to be heard even when swamped by milk and foam.

Having loved the espresso one morning, Jane and I returned the next day to try a beverage listed on the menu as white lightning and billed as the “drink for those who desire a supercharged espresso experience.” The server explained that these beans are only minimally roasted, showing us a heap of ground white lightning that was pale almond color — innocuous indeed. The coffee made from this roast is itself quite anemic looking, nothing like the baritone “normal” espresso. A few sips of the triple-caffeinated stuff made me appreciate just how important full-roasting is to the flavor of coffee. With none of the earthy depth that a long stretch of heat imparts, it reminded me of medicinal dishwater. I’ve given it only one star (fail!), because I did not like it at all, but if you are a coffee hound, do give it a try. Chacun a son gout!

Pioneer roasters has a case full of decent pastries and also sells breakfast burritos and sandwiches. It’s excellent coffee that will keep me coming back.

A second location of Pioneer Coffee Roasting Company is in North Bend, at 202 W. North Bend Way. (425-292-0957)