Pearl’s Saltwater Grill

If only for its location, with tables offering panoramic views of coastal waters, and its warm ambience, which is clean, country rustic, Pearl’s would be a worthy destination. But even if it was in a city basement, I would recommend it. Pearl’s also happens to serve expertly-prepared seafood.

Simply char-grilled, broiled, Cajun, or pan-seared fish are available gilded with your choice of Chardonnay butter, blue cheese, or sweet chili glaze. The everyday fresh list includes grouper, salmon, swordfish, tuna, rainbow trout, and tilapia. As good as the basic preparations may be, “Pearl’s Classics” offer a world of excellent invention. Crab-stuffed flounder, for instance, comes with a Ritz cracker and crab stuffing, topped with Mornay sauce and accompanied by wild rice and sauteed spinach. I’ve tucked into Parmesan-crusted grouper topped with crab claw meat and have begun a meal with gorgeous oysters Florentine baked with spinach, crab, and cheese.

Every table gets a basket of hush puppies, which are favorites among repeat visitors. The cornmeal spheres themselves are tender, fairly lightweight, and just barely sweet. Along with them come ramekins of herbed butter and honey butter soft enough for dipping.

Other menu highlights include a Lowcountry boil (shrimp, smoked sausage, corn, potatoes) as well as crab legs and steamed shrimp. While Pearl’s is not open for lunch, it does have a repertoire of burgers, po boy sandwiches, and tacos for those in search of something less than a big-deal dinner.

Good desserts include fluffy Key lime pie and crusty Georgia peach cobbler accompanied by a bowl of vanilla ice cream.