Paul’s is one of those places that foodies keep on a secret list so as to not destroy it with fame. We do not want to stand on long lines to wait for a table. But I am going to let the cat out of the bag and turn you on to a secret favorite. If I get there and you are waiting in a long line, you can thank me by letting me go first. It would be a nice gesture.
One could drive by Paul’s without a clue. In a residential neighborhood of Groton (home of the submarine base), it looks like an old-fashioned grocery store in an old house. There is a sign outside that says Paul’s Pasta. What it should say is Stop here at once because this is some of the best food on the planet. You can see why I don’t make my living as a sign painter.
Stars of the show at Paul’s are fresh handmade pasta and sauces to match. Potato gnocchi and raviolis are feather-light, spaghetti is cut in a dozen different shapes and size, mounds the size of your fist, itty bitty delicate noodles, and big broad ones. If you get the makings of a meal to go, do not forget to get a pint or two of Paul’s meat heavy ragu and the spicy marinara as well. They are head and shoulders above any red sauce sold anywhere including the famous stuff on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx.
I urge you to eat here. If you snag one of the little tables, you must to try the Spaghetti Pie – a serious country-style deep dish, red sauced concoction with sweet and hot sausages – or Paparadelle Carbonara, which is noodles bathed in a lush Alfredo sauce with black peppercorns, prosciutto, and peas. This is rustic Italian food served beautifully and without pretensions.