Park Row Market #1

Located on Courthouse Square in the historic town that has been home to 10 South Carolina governors and is currently home to the National Wild Turkey Federation, Park Row Market #1 exudes a sense of time. It is located in what began as a general store in the mid-19th century, and while the building is restored and solid, the restaurant space retains creaky wood floors and old merchandise shelves along the wall. Decor includes vintage advertisements, crafts products that look vintage but aren’t, jugs of barbecue sauce (good stuff!), and jumble-store nick-knacks.

The menu is modern. No attempt is made in this kitchen to reflect past ways of eating or the unique tastes of South Carolina. Well, maybe with one exception, and that is pimento cheese. Popular throughout the South, but a special passion in the Palmetto State, it is here available in sandwiches and by the pint for taking home. It’s unusual pimento cheese, its texture reminiscent of large-curd dry cottage cheese, its color an intense orange that makes me think of Cheetos or the Clemson tiger. There’s little, if any, mayonnaise and plenty of dense cream cheese, plus a potent pepper punch. It’s my favorite thing on the menu.

Everything is served on paper plates or in disposable containers, and it’s easy to have lunch for under $10. Sandwiches are the highlights of the menu. They’re generously apportioned and made on good sourdough, pretzel rolls, or toasted rye. A Clemson Bleu Cheese salad is bright and refreshing, served with vivid orange dressing and blanketed with good Tiger cheese. I haven’t eaten the house made barbecue in the restaurant, but I have had it at an affair Park Row catered and liked it very much. It is classic hacked up pork: tender, moist, smoky, and even better when drizzled with either Midlands mustard or red sauce.

There often is a supply of outstanding desserts, including yummy triple-layer caramel cake.