Nonna’s Italian Kitchen

Review by: Michael Stern

**** THIS RESTAURANT IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED ****

South Carolina’s many culinary virtues do not include an abundance of excellent Italian food. That’s why Nonna’s Italian Kitchen is a treasure. It’s more Italian-American than by-the-book regional Italian, but if you are in the market for parmigiana, piccata, francese or marsala, for lasagna or penne a la vodka or steak pizzaiola, there’s not a better place I know in all the southland.

When it first opened, I was skeptical about early reports from customers whose overwhelming reaction was all about the size of the portions. They are indeed enormous — take-home containers are a common sight in the hands of diners who are leaving — but in this restaurant, abundance is no substitute for quality. (That’s a common deficiency in many second-rate Italian-American eateries.)

Quality is the word that comes to mind when seeking a single adjective to describe what’s served. Nothing is mediocre. Veal is fork-tender; sauces are freshly-made and radiant with herbs and spice; fish is fresh and firm; calamari is downright elegant; bread that begins a meal is top-notch bakery yield. Even the house salad (served family-style) sparkles.

Desserts are a classic roster: cheesecake, chocolate cake, gelato, etc. Although we were absolutely satiated by dinner, my table of five felt obliged to at least try a tartufo (that’s a chocolate-robed ball of vanilla and chocolate ice cream larded with sweet cherries). After completely and very happily dispatching it, we wished we had ordered at least one more.

What To Eat

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Zuppa di Pesce

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Tartufo

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Bread

DISH
Shrimp Scampi

DISH
Lasagna

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Nonna’s Italian Kitchen Recipes

Discuss

What do you think of Nonna’s Italian Kitchen?

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