Niecie’s

“You get two ears!” beamed Ms. Myra C., identified on her waitress badge as having more than two decades of service at this good soul food cafe. Ms. Myra was referring to the pig ear sandwich, a regular item on the menu, and a selection, of course, we could not resist. Yep, it’s two whole ears in a bun. We got ours with the works: lettuce, tomato, onion and ultra-hot horseradish. We’ve got to admit that ears are a little scary, not so much because they’re the worst part of the pig – there are plenty of edible parts that are, logically speaking, much ickier – but because they look exactly like ears. Their taste is not objectionable; it’s something like the fatty parts of bacon or streak o’ lean; but the gelatinous texture is, to say the least, a little weird.

If you’re not an ear epicure, Niecie’s has plenty of more mainstream fare to offer: breakfast of chicken and waffles or fried pork chops with grits, a fantastic specialty of seasoned chicken wings grilled with onions and served with fried green beans, and a ham and bean bowl with corn muffins. Daily specials include salmon croquettes on Monday, a legendary smothered chicken Tuesday, short ribs Friday, and fried catfish Saturday.

Desserts are as homey as can be, including sweet potato pie and peach cobbler. And to drink, there is lemonade that’s freshly squeezed.

Please note Niecie’s new, larger quarters, on Troost. The Prospect location now is closed.