Mustard’s Last Stand

Review by: Michael Stern

If you crave a true Chicago red hot while in the northern suburb of Evanston, Mustard’s Last Stand will fill the bill. It is an adorable little shop near Northwestern’s stadium that has has a full menu of burgers, sandwiches and wraps, chicken and salads, but it’t the hot dogs that matter. They are all-beef, Vienna-brand red hots steamed to plumpness and cushioned inside soft, poppy-seed rolls. All the usual Chi-town condiments are available, even ketchup.

In fact, the house catchphrase is “Catch-up to Mustard’s.” As a test – and only as a test – we once requested some on a frank. “Really?” asked the counterman. “Are you sure?” When we told him we were only kidding, and wanted the ketchup for dipping French fries (a proper use for it in Chicago), he beamed with relief and took extra care arranging the condiments on our red hot like a horn of plenty.

Connoisseurs of cheap-eats interior décor will admire the counter stools at Mustard’s, the upholstery of which display a lovely portrait of a fully-dressed hot dog.

What To Eat

Red Hot with the works

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