Mr. G’s Smokehouse & Seafood Grill

Mr. G’s is a peripatetic restaurant that’s worth following, no matter where it goes. It has had a few different addresses along Florida’s Forgotten Coast in the last couple of years. Its current location, just off Highway 98 in Mexico Beach, is a charming tree-shaded shoebox of a joint scarcely bigger than the great iron smoker parked out front. From this smoker emerge brisket, pulled pork, and baby back ribs as good as from a single-minded smokehouse.

But good smoked meat is just one thing that makes Mr. G’s a notable Roadfood destination. Consider the tacos. These are modern tacos, seafood mostly, including one of whitefish that is shockingly creamy and encased in an energetically spiced coat, complemented by avocado cream. A tuna taco is freighted with slices of seared fish soft as velvet. You also can get a taco filled with sauteed shrimp.

Side dishes are a must, especially honey chipotle beans that are silky little legumes that strike a marvelous balance of sweet, smoky, and hot. Pineapple mandarin slaw is another winner, especially as a companion for zesty smoke-cooked meats.

As for dessert, if Key lime pie is available, it’s a must. Unlike classic versions of the dish, this one gets whipped and frozen. At first, still icy, it offers some resistance to the fork and the flavor is elusive. But it quickly loses its chill and freezer hardness. Like excellent ice cream, it attains a peak of flavor before it’s melted, but well into the process of becoming soft and creamy. This is an unbelievably luxurious rendition of the Florida state dessert.

I haven’t yet had a full breakfast at Mr. G’s (just a bewitching deep-fried and sugared croissant), but it sounds worthwhile, including actually Belgian Belgian waffles along with breakfast tacos, sandwiches, and biscuits with gravy.

Call ahead to make Sure Mr. G’s is open. Hours vary.