Excellent | Worth a Detour
Review by: Michael Stern
A fiberglass chicken about as tall as a grizzly bear stands outside Mr. D’s beckoning customers to drive in. While Mr. D’s is a full-menu drive-in with a repertoire of hamburgers, hot dogs, and sandwiches, chicken rules. It is fried chicken made from a recipe popularized decades ago by a legendary chicken man named Colonel Jim, and like the stupendously good chicken served at Henderson’s Brown Bag Burgers, it has a wickedly crunchy crust that is spicy enough to make your eyes water.
Because Mr. D’s is a quick-service drive-in with car-service only, the chicken you order will be delivered to your window in five minutes or less, meaning that it might have been cooked ahead of time rather than to order. This is good if you are really hungry, but can mean that the chicken you get may not be fresh-from-the-fryer crisp. Make no mistake: this is four-star fried chicken, putting just about any non-Kentucky fried chicken to shame. But the next time we order some, we are going to do as Henderson tipster Louis Hatchett advises: request that the kitchen cook it to order. If that twenty-minute wait means crust guaranteed to crack when bitten and meat that seeps hot juice, we’ll happily endure it.
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner|
|Credit Cards Accepted||No|