Manuel’s Bread Cafe

“In the tradition of a true French bistro,” this café describes itself, a pose well-reflected in an insouciant bill of fare that ranges from crème brulée French toast in the morning to Reubens and French dips at lunch to steak au poivre for two at dinner. Weekend brunch is a happy time to visit, especially popular when weather allows al fresco sidewalk dining.

What with shrimp and grits for breakfast and pulled pork barbecue and burgers for lunch and veggies straight from Manuel’s nearby garden, the menu is as much local and all-American as it is French (boeuf bourguignon) and even a bit French-Canadian (iconoclastic poutine topped with andouille sausage, gravy, and Gruyere cheese).

One sure winner from the regular menu is Manuel’s grilled vegetable sandwich, which features what’s in season. One Spring day it is slim stalks of asparagus, a disk or two of beet, onions, chevre, and olive tapenade singing a happy tune between two slices of crisp, multi-grain toast.

Among the many cakes available, pay special attention to the pound cakes, especially sweet-potato pound cake topped with sticky pecan glaze.