“Praise God for corn from Mexico,” declared one tamale-eating customer when he saw us glowing with joy over the sunshine-and-butter brightness of Los Jarritos’ green corn tamales, which are always on the menu. Once strictly a late-summer, early-fall dish, when local corn was ripe and chile was harvested, green corn tamales now are available year-around thanks to trucked-in corn from the south and chilies that are frozen after being roasted.
Los Jarritos’ green corn tamales are some of the best, a swirl of sweet corn and hot pepper flavors steamed to a point of opulent harmony. Order at least a couple of them to accompany such classic Sonoran meals as carne asada, nopalitos con chili (prickly pear cactus with chili colorado), and red or white menudo available in sizes from a pint to a gallon. Most meals are ordered to take out and most tamales are sold by the dozen, but a couple of tables inside and a few on a small patio out front give regulars the opportunity to linger over long breakfasts of huevos rancheros with house-made chorizo and carry on conversations with each other and with strangers.
Note to alcoholics: Los Jarritos sells menudo “ready to cook.” For $35 you get all the fixins needed to make a large vat of the traditional Mexican hangover cure: 11 pounds of tripe, 2 beef feet, and 5 pounds of nixtamal (treated corn).