Kreuz (rhymes with bites) started as a downtown meat market over a century ago, and it was one of the places that defined Texas barbecue. Several years ago, owing to a complicated family feud, it moved out of town (from the place that is now Smitty’s) to an immense roadside dining barn with all the charm of an airplane hangar.
So, it lacks the ramshackle feel of a good old Texas pit. But the meats made here are among the very best. Kreuz’s pit-cooked prime rib just might be the carnivorously satisfying foodstuff on earth. Brisket, sausage, and ribs are all superb. Despite its modern facilities, Kreuz has maintained pit-cook tradition: a limited menu that is meat, bread, and condiments (plus ice cream cones at a separate counter); and tote-your-own service from a ferociously hot pit where meat is sliced to order and sold by the pound.