Kitchen

The only thing that suggests Kitchen is a restaurant is its name. Otherwise, you might miss the small, unassuming spot. The narrow space holds 14 lucky folks, tops, in tight wooden booths that are painted a dark green. The owner and chef is manning the fort alone when we get there, and in absolutely no hurry. There’s no greeting when we arrive, and no rush to clear the table that’s opened up. It’s first come, first served, and the line can sometimes be up to two hours on weekends, so we count ourselves lucky to sit down in about 10 minutes. The menu’s on the chalkboard and the coffee’s self-serve until the second employee—a waiter—arrives.

Muffin flavors change often, and today it’s cranberry-orange. It’s big, cut in half, and crisped in butter. The outside has a salty crunch, and the inside is sweet and moist. Visible bits of orange set a citrus-y vibe, with hints of cranberry.

We get The Big Shot with croissant French toast, which features a croissant that’s somehow pounded into a half-inch-thick piece of toast, then beautifully griddled and sprinkled with powdered sugar. Each one of the croissant layers sops up the real maple syrup. It also comes with a few tasty home fries, over-easy eggs, and a piece of thick slab bacon that looks and tastes more like pork belly.

Then there’s bacon hash. You know those bits at the bottom of a sauté pan that have soaked up the last of the oil and are just-the-right crispyness? That’s what this entire hash tastes like, with potatoes, fennel, onions, and bite-sized pieces of that thick, fatty bacon. The over-easy eggs have light and fluffy whites.

You can’t be in a hurry at Kitchen, or expect anyone to assure you of a wait time. Also, it’s cash only. But the chef and owner takes great care and consideration in each dish, and is especially warm and appreciative when you walk a few steps back to thank him for a delicious meal.