Kitchen Little isn’t little anymore. Now located at the Mystic River Marina in a spacious place overlooking docked boats, it is far from the extremely cute 400-square-foot diner it used to be. It has become a picturesque restaurant with a panoramic view.
The breakfasts and lunches we’ve had since the expansion are reassurance that all is well; nothing was lost in upgrade. The menu has all the familiar items, including the wonderful S’medley, which is scrambled eggs combined with melted cheese, fried potatoes, sausage, mushrooms, and onions. The S’medley was named to honor Susan Davis, the woman who first transformed the original little building that had once been a private home, then a rug shop, then a greasy spoon, into Kitchen Little back in the late 1970s.
Another highlight from the breakfast menu is The Portuguese Fisherman, which is scrambled eggs, sausage, peppers, onions, and jalapeno cheese with a Portuguese English muffin. If you’re watching your cholesterol, you can have an omelet made with just one yolk and three whites, filled with spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, onions, and carrots, with health nut toast on the side.
Lunch is not a mere footnote. There are fine, big hamburgers, world-class fried clams, and superb Southern New England Style clam chowder. That’s the clear-broth variety, steel-gray and briny, loaded with tender nuggets of clam — a great winter-warm-up meal.