Legendary | Worth driving from anywhere
Jess & Jim’s
Review by: Michael Stern
All around Jess & Jim’s every evening, the air is perfumed by the mouth-watering smell of cooking beef; several parking lots are full and streets are crowded with customers eager to savor hand-cut T-bones, filets, porterhouses, and strips. (The management offers a “call ahead” system in lieu of reservations: phone an hour before you expect to arrive, and chances are good you won’t have to wait too long.)
Steaks arrive from the kitchen exuberantly sputtering, crusty from an iron griddle. The top-of-the-line twenty-five ounce “KC Playboy Strip” is a full two inches thick, and unlike the super-tender bacon-wrapped filets, it demands some serious chewing. Not that it is tough; but neither is it a cut of meat for milquetoasts. Dense and intense, this is steak-lover’s steak!
Great steak demands great potatoes; and Jess & Jim’s serves some beauties. A hungry meat-frowner could eat nothing but potatoes in this place: cottage fries, French fries, or one of the immense bakers on display along with cuts of raw steak in a glass refrigerator case near the front door. But of course none of these alleged vegetables are prepared to please the culinary prig. Even if you demur on sour cream, bacon, and shredded cheese condiments, the pound-plus baked potato will be served split open and twice-baked, with a scoop of butter that looks to be nearly one-eighth of a pound melting into it.
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