Memorable | One of the Best
Review by: Michael Stern
JR’s really is a shack — a ramshackle building with decor that includes a few dozen game animal trophies, pig figurines, and signs with slogans such as “If my pick-up truck ain’t here, I’m in the woods chasin’ deer…” Bathrooms are labeled Bucks and Does. When waitress Susan comes to take our order she notices that the roll of paper towels on the table (in lieu of puny single napkins) is low, so the first order of business — after bringing 32-ounce flagons of sweet tea — is to replace it with a full roll.
Ribs star. Although meat slips easily from the bone, they provide a serious, ecstatic chew that sets forth great waves of smoky, piggy flavor. Barbecued chicken is so tender that juice-saturated dark meat quite literally falls from a drumstick when we lift it from the plate. It is memorably delicious chicken, some of the best anywhere.
Only the chopped barbecue (pork, of course) is disappointing – somewhat drab and dry. That situation is easily remedied by application of one of three sauces provided to the table: mild, sweet, and hot. White sauce, echoing Alabama preferences to the north, also is available on request. It’s probably best suited for the chicken, but for me, this chicken is too good to mess with.
Fine, fine side dishes: thick, firm mac ‘n’ cheese; sweet, meat-laden barbecue beans; crisp and refreshing cole slaw. While Brunswick stew can sometimes seem like a kitchen afterthought, JR’s is nothing short of magnificent: packed with big shreds of pork, sweet tomato-fruity, and tongue-tickling spicy. When Susan heard me and Jane declaiming our admiration for it, she piped in, “I eat Brunswick stew here six days a week. I’ve been working here twelve years and I could never leave … because the food’s too good!”
Directions & Hours
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|