Hubbard’s Off Main

It is hard to categorize Hubbard’s Off Main because its personality is unique. Located in a brick-walled, wood-floored town building that has been both a hardware store and a piano store, it has a casual air but serves sophisticated food. Some of its specialties reflect traditions of the Deep South, from shrimp & grits to fried catfish to turnip greens. The repertoire also includes dishes with a Louisiana accent — jambalaya, Cajun seafood ramen (!), pork and shrimp gumbo. It also is possible to tuck into a hand-cut ribeye steak or a bacon cheeseburger on Texas toast.

Diverse as the menu is, everything that comes from the kitchen shares a level of class and style that reflects culinary ambition that is something other than a basic small-town meat-and-three cafe. Nothing I have eaten is outrageous or edgy; but that’s the point. This is neighborly fare: pimento cheese is creamy and spreadable; meat loaf is subtle and swank; mac ‘n’ cheese, made with good rotini pasta, is sheer comfort food. My eyebrows did get raised (happily) by a salted caramel pretzel brownie a la mode for dessert, but I would argue that such extremism when it comes to sweet things is a classic southern touch.

Notes: Hubbard’s is closed Monday. Dinner is served only Thursday through Saturday. Live music is featured weekend nights.