Of course I am going to stop in a restaurant that calls itself Hot Dog World. And of course I am going to like it, even if I don’t like it all that much. Its mission in life and attitude are admirable; and the Dixie dog is dandy and the burgers are beautiful in a mid-century American drive-in way. Nothing I’ve eaten is going to make me eagerly detour off the highway for another helping, but if I am in Hendersonville and the yearning for a blubbery frankfurter topped with mustard, onions, mildly spicy beef chili and sweet slaw strikes (as it often does), I know where to go.

Hamburgers, like Hot Dog World hot dogs, aren’t cordon bleu. But that’s OK, for there are times when a cheap round of beef, fully dressed and topped with cheese and loaded into a fresh sesame seed bun is just what’s needed. In my book, this one has all the ingenuous charm that is lacking in the corporate-created franchised versions.

A town favorite since the 1980s, Hot Dog World is a nice stop for those seeking a jolly fast food meal for well under $10.

By the way, next to Hot Dog World is Yogurt World, a serve-yourself frozen yogurt shop.