A mighty cinnamon roll — surely in the four-digit calorie range — is my favorite thing to eat at Hi-Spot. Aside from girth, the roll is notable for superthick veins of cinnamon sugar, rich with slivered nuts, that fill all crevices of the swirly pastry. Buttermilk biscuits are equally lovely, although by midday they are several hours old and need to be reheated. The result is dough fatigue and a thicker bite.
There is an inviting lunch menu of soups, salads and sandwiches, but I will be coming back for eggs. You can have them poached, scrambled, fried, or made into an omelet. Design your own from an ingredient list that runs from garlic and olives to sour cream, artichokes, and various pig meats, or choose from such house specialties as “El Pacifico” — loaded with layers of smoked salmon, dill cream, capers and scallions, then topped with more dill cream — and “The Round-Up” — chicken sausage, goat cheese, tomatoes and basil. Chunky home fries and toast come on the side.
One problem with this very nice, very Seattle breakfast-and-lunch café in the Madrona neighborhood is that many locals know and like it. Expect to wait for a table, especially if you are coming for weekend brunch. It’s located in an old home, so the configuration is curious: a few tables and a long counter on the main floor, then more tables up a flight of stairs (where the kitchen is), and a bathroom with a tub on the floor above that!