Memorable | One of the Best
H&H Soul Food
Review by: Michael Stern
Founded by Inez Hill and Louise Hudson in 1959, H&H Restaurant gained pop-culture fame during Macon’s 1970s music explosion, when it was a favorite haunt of the Allman Brothers. In 2014, it was bought, refurbished, and reopened as H&H Soul Food.
Yes, you can get a creamy buttermilk biscuit simply topped with sausage gravy or sandwiching bacon and eggs, and the menu is replete with such classics as fried chicken, ox tails, mac ‘n’ cheese, and collard greens; but there are too many fun iterations not to venture into the kitchen’s more experimental realm. How about, for instance, a biscuit pot pie, which is all the elements of a chicken pot pie piled into a split biscuit? Or smoked chicken poutine? or PB&J French toast? I love a breakfast called The Ramblin Man, featuring thin slices of smoked brisket that are both sweet and briny. The meat is accompanied by a slice of fried green tomato, cheese, and an egg — all sandwiched in one of the lovely biscuits. The Red Dog is another wild-and-crazy creation: a biscuit freighted with fried chicken, collard greens, an egg, and both red-eye and sawmill gravy. Side-dish grits have a good grain taste, even if they are more chewy than creamy
Lunch is a meat-and-three affair, the meats including meat loaf, pork chops, catfish, and heartily seasoned fried chicken; the sides a traditional roster of greens, squash casserole, fried okra, etc.
Quality ingredients, rock-music history, a well-inked staff of waitresses, and a menu that goes beyond tradition have been a formula for great success. H&H can get very crowded and car parking around it is limited. It’s especially popular for weekend brunch, when the brick-walled dining room throbs with the ebullience of enthusiastic clientele.
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